Wazwaan: Aromatic Rogan Josh, Rista, the celebrated Gushtaba…

During winter months, marriage seasons, and religious festivals, Kashmiri kitchens and community kitchens fill with the rich sizzle of browning mutton and the fragrance of traditional spices, representing centuries of culinary heritage. Now, there seems to be a big crisis.

By Rao Farman Ali

Jammu and Kashmir imports around 14 lakh sheep and goats annually to meet its meat demand, resulting in a loss of approximately Rs 1,000 and Rs 1,400 crore to the local economy. The region produces only 30,000 tonnes of mutton locally, while its annual consumption is about 60,000 tonnes. This significant supply gap is primarily filled through imports from Rajasthan, Haryana, Gujarat, and Uttar Pradesh.

"The major supply chain runs from Ujlan-Jaisalmer, Jaipal Basti, Jaisalmer, and Sikar areas of Rajasthan, besides other states," says Mehraej Ahmad Ganaie, a senior office-bearer of the Mutton Dealers Association Kashmir (MDAK).

This supply-demand imbalance in Kashmir goes beyond economics and affects its cultural fabric as well. Mutton holds a central place in daily life and family/community celebrations. Dishes such as the aromatic Rogan Josh, Rista, and the celebrated Gushtaba highlight how mutton is the essence of Wazwaan, Kashmir's traditional grand feast. This feast is not just a meal; it symbolises community and identity.

During winter months, marriage seasons, and religious festivals, Kashmiri kitchens and community kitchens (Vorae) fill with the rich sizzle of browning mutton and the fragrance of traditional spices, representing centuries of culinary heritage.

The region's dependence on external sources for this cultural staple raises concerns about economic sustainability, cultural vulnerability, and public health safeguards. Experts suggest that transforming Kashmir's traditional pastoral sector into a modern, high-value industry could secure both the economy and the cultural traditions centred around this essential ingredient.

Unpacking a Systemic Crisis   

The current state of affairs is the result of decades of systemic neglect in which short-term fixes have consistently taken precedence over strategic thinking for the long term. This multi-layered crisis intertwines environmental degradation, economic shortsightedness, and emerging health concerns that demand urgent attention from healthcare institutions across Jammu and Kashmir.

The very bedrock of sheep-rearing is crumbling. The vast natural grazing lands, also known as margs, alpine pastures, and village Kacharai , which were once used to feed large flocks of animals, are disappearing at an alarming rate.

Urban sprawl, infrastructure projects, and changing land use have steadily destroyed these commons. The remaining land is often degraded, overgrazed, and unable to support a healthy livestock population. A way of life is in jeopardy for the nomadic Gujjar and Bakerwal communities, as their traditional migratory routes and pastures are diminishing.

A crisis of genetic stagnation is exacerbating the ecological issues in the region. Local sheep breeds, such as the hardy Kashmir Merino and the fine-wooled Gaddi, are well adapted to the harsh mountain climate of Jammu and Kashmir. However, these breeds are not very productive in terms of meat output.

In contrast, international sheep breeds can yield meat that is two to three times greater than that of local varieties, with carcasses averaging around 12 kilograms. For generations, the focus has been on wool production and the survival of these breeds, rather than on systematic genetic improvement for meat production.

The local industry comprises an informal, dispersed network of smallholders lacking access to modern fodder management systems, high-quality breeding rams, or professional veterinary care. It is a sector operating far below its potential, unable to meet the soaring regional demand.  

Crippling Economic Drain

An ongoing, self-inflicted economic wound is evident in the size of the annual import bill, which amounts to hundreds of crores of rupees flowing to other states. This capital, if retained and reinvested within J&K, could transform rural infrastructure, fund cutting-edge agricultural research, and provide direct incentives to farmers.  

The external dependency creates a profound vulnerability.

The lifeline for Kashmir’s mutton supply is the precarious Jammu-Srinagar National Highway (NH44). A landslide, a security closure, or severe weather -- which are frequent in occurrence – can sever this pulmonary vein, leading to severe shortages, panic buying, and skyrocketing prices that cost many families even a basic meal.

A stark and moving illustration of how an economic supply-chain failure can directly paralyse a fundamental cultural and social ritual has been documented in instances where families were forced to postpone weddings due to lack of sheep. The mountain road holds the feast and the community it unites to hostage.

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(Rao Farman Ali is a Kashmir-based researcher and author of History of Armed Struggles in Kashmir and five other books. This article appeared in the online edition of Kashmir Times on February 3, 2026.)

Courtesy Kashmir Times